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  • Writer's picturefrancie saunders

When she grows up she'll explore Mexico on the back of a stranger's motorcycle

Updated: Jun 1, 2023

On the morning of February 8th, 2023 I woke up in the perfectly located apartment in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City where I had been sharing space with my brother and his fiancée for the past three days. With my bags already packed from the night before, I made brushed my teeth, made sure every zipper was closed, kissed my siblings goodbye, and called an Uber to the airport.


I waited there in a "holding zone" which I may have experienced before but had certainly forgotten about since. My flight to the airport in Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas was easy. I don't love flying and find the only good part of it to be the view (of course, this is aside from the wonder and amazing opportunity that is air travel). So, I was thrilled to have an entire spacious exit row to myself with a view right out the window. With my favorite music playing in my ears, I stared out the window at this foreign and exciting country passing beneath me. I felt gratitude for the days I had with my siblings eating, walking, and laughing in Mexico City. I felt a deep sadness about the past week I'd spent with Yiya, watching her drift onto the next chapter as I did my best to dedicate everything I had to her in her last days. The grief woven into each breath fought the excitement and disbelief I felt as I dived into this adventure. I could barely believe that I was about to meet Dillon for the first time and explore southern Mexico with him. I sat with these feelings that day and each of the next 14 days.


Off the plane and landed at Tuxla, I walked briskly and confidently carrying my black backpack and green 20 liter dry bag through the airport exit. These two bags held everything I needed for the next - what would turn out to be - two weeks in Chiapas. Outside of the airport I saw the shape of mountains in the distance, white clouds against the blue sky, and bright green trees basking in the sun and swaying in the little bouts of wind. It was warm - not too hot - which was a nice welcome as I'd become all too accustomed to the frigid winter air in Colorado during the long winter months. I waited patiently under a tree near the airport exit while two European travelers pulled on their cigarettes in nearby shade. They moved on and I settled in to wait patiently for whenever Dillon would arrive.


It wasn't long before I heard the rumblings of a motorcycle. Looking over my right shoulder towards the entrance to the airport I saw the bike. I recognized it immediately from the photos he'd sent to me. And, as expected, driving it was Dillon. He was talking to a security guard at the entrance and they were waving their hands around, animatedly saying things to each other. Here, let me help. I stepped out from the shade and waved at them. The guard saw me and pointed my way. Dillon turned his head and spotted me. Shrugging off the security officer, he rode over to me with his feet sticking out from the sides of the bike, making the shape of an incoming star.


He called me over to the shade where he climbed off the bike and turned back towards me. The first thing I saw was the word "YES" written across a corner of his graphic black t-shirt. He hugged me with is helmet still on and my hands felt how the sun must have cooked the fabric on his back as he drove an hour from San Cris to pick me up.

He was very tall. Maybe even taller than I expected. And it seemed he was real.

With his helmet off I could see him far better - he stood there, familiar and new all at once. His head was shaved close. His mustache and soul patch smiled hello at me. There we were. I felt calm, as I usually do when taking on a new adventure or challenge.

I was present in the moment, soaking it all in, and would continue to live that way exclusively over the next two weeks.


As he was securing my backpack to the left side of the bike Dillon peaked up at me to ak, "So, am I everything you expected and more?"

I smiled. "After 5 minutes? I'll have to let you know." I said.

He laughed. I'd go on to make him laugh a lot.


I strapped my dry bag to the right side of the bike, took the helmet and gloves that he'd brought for me, and donned my leather jacket. The warmth of my body combined with that of the sun made me feel one with the air around us. Dillon climbed on first and then I hoisted myself up on the small seat behind him. Ah, just like mounting a horse, I thought to myself.

I wondered where exactly to put my hands as I looked around and then over his shoulder. His back was now clad with a thick black leather jacket that reflected the sun's rays.


The bike roared and we drove away from the airport. Chiapas began to unfold around me as we rode west. There were things that immediately reminded me of places I've been, like Ecuador and Tanzania, but of course it was so new as well. It all felt surreal.


I'm here? I'm here! I'm on the back of his bike. We were starting an adventure. We took the highway up and out of Tuxla, over the mountainside, and down into the city of San Cristobal de las Casas where we'd spend most of our time in Chiapas together. The streets were cobblestone, the buildings were colorful, and the city was alive.


Like I mentioned, I was intentionally present during my time here with Dillon. I wanted to sign off from everything back home. It felt so easy that I wondered if I should feel guilty for how much I wanted to leave it all behind. I turned off notifications for my work apps, I didn't look at social media, and I rarely texted or called anyone throughout this trip who wasn't alongside me in Southern Mexico. While my heart was back home with my family sharing in their pain and love, it was also right there in my chest, beating against Dillon's back.


The apartment we'd be in for the next 5 days was at the top of this hill, nestled in right next to Church of Guadalupe. The entire building, inside and out, was painted purple. The apartment was humble and had everything we needed including a stunning view of the city as it rolled down through the streets below us. I was lucky to start these first days in San Cris with a vantage point of the entire city. Aside from providing a great view it also helped me understand how the city is set up, where its boundaries are, how its built in a grid-like pattern, and how its set in a valley between mountainsides. I would never map out this city in detail in my head - maybe I could have tried a bit harder to do so - but I had Dillon there to lead us around the city. And I let him. I needed him to lead us at times and I'm grateful he did.


Dillon had been to San Cristobal de las Casas many times before so he knew the streets and the spots. As the evening unfolded so did our first date. Dillon and I started with a view of the sunset at the top of a favorite restaurant of his. Honest conversation poured out between us, curious questions weaved their way into every topic, we shared our histories, our hopes and dreams, and very quickly warmed up to each other. It was easy and truly fun.


The last stop on our first date, after savory bites and refreshing drinks here and there around the Centro, featured live music in what could be called an ancient building - though beautifully renovated and cared for. And there, sitting next to me in a chair made from hide, listening to the musicians pluck their acoustic guitars and sing their Spanish songs, he kissed me.

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